USE OF WILD RICE IN BEER

Note: This article was written by Louie Bourbonnais for the 1994 Special Edition of Zymurgy magazine. This is the "Author's cut" which is considerably longer and more detailed than the final "Editor's cut" which appeared in the magazine.

Biological Characteristics

Wild Rice is an annual aquatic grass more closely related to cereal grains such as barley, oats and corn than actual rice. There are four known species in the United States and Canada with a number of sub varieties identified. The two most prevalent are Zizania aquatica and Zizania palustris. (There is a paddy grown, commercial variety of wild rice that is considered inferior by food purists. You can sample both and draw your own conclusions. For reasons of simplicity, this article will be devoted primarily to the naturally occurring lake and river varieties.) From a culinary standpoint, there appears to be little difference between species. As there is no beer related research to consult, it must be assumed there is no difference to the brewer either.

Growing Season and Conditions

Being an annual, wild rice regenerates from seed. It grows in shallow areas of lakes and rivers. In April, after winter dormancy, the seed germinates under water producing a single leaf and stem. As more leaves grow, the tops float on the water surface. By late August, the rice begins to ripen. The small-grained rice along rivers or sandy lake bottoms ripens earliest.

Range

Wild rice grows over much of the United States and Canada but is most prevalent in the Central regions of both countries. Minnesota and Wisconsin are the leading natural wild rice producing states in the United States.

History

Wild rice is a staple food for American Indians. Archaeological records indicate harvesting of wild rice by the Anishinaabeg (also called Ojibwa) Indians of the Great Lakes region as far back as 2,500 years ago. (The Indian word for wild rice is Mahnomem or Menominee, hence the plethora of cities, rivers and lakes in the Great Lakes region bearing these names.) When the harvest and processing is completed a great feast is held to celebrate the year's bounty of food. Wild rice also has religious and ceremonial significance in Indian culture. Legend has it, Anishinaabeg were once an East coast people. The legend tells of a great journey and a land where food grew abundantly in the water. When they reached that land, they would find a home. This land was the Great Lakes region and the food was wild rice. For the Anishinaabeg, wild rice is considered a gift from god.

White traders and settlers bought wild rice from the Indians as early as the turn of the century. Demand has been greater than supply of naturally grown wild rice for many years. This has spurred the development of commercially grown wild rice which is cultivated in large quantities in man-made paddies. Commercially grown wild rice currently accounts for over 75% of the total harvest.

Wild rice's use by people of western culture has been largely similar to that of rice, as a side dish for many meats, and as a component in soups and casseroles (known in Minnesota as "hotdish").

Harvesting and Processing

Two people in a small boat or canoe harvest wild rice. One poles or paddles while the other "flails" the wild rice. Using two sticks, the ricer bends the stalk over the boat and gently taps to knock the ripe wild rice grains. The unripe grains are left on the plant to ripen for later harvest, food for wild animals and next season's crop. Wild rice beds are visited every two or three days until the harvest is complete. Even with these careful procedures, the majority of the wild rice is not harvested.

Harvesting in Minnesota and other states is carefully regulated to ensure the survival and expansion of the natural stands. The stands are closely monitored for abundance and ripeness of the grains. When it has been determined that there has not been a crop failure and there has been sufficient shattering of ripe grains (shattering is the process by which ripe grains dislodge from the stalk.) to reseed the stand for next year the harvesting season is established. The season is posted for the stands that are harvestable and Conservation Officers closely monitor the activities of harvesters to ensure that there is no overharvesting. All prospective wild rice harvesters must purchase a state or tribal license depending on the jurisdiction in which they are harvesting.
Today, most wild rice, even that which is traditionally harvested, is processed by large commercial processors. Natural grown rice is kept separate from paddy rice but is processed by the same methods. There are, however, still some stalwarts left who insist upon traditional processing methods. It is these method which I will discuss in this article. There are four steps involved in processing wild rice. (They are the same no matter what equipment is used or what volume is processed.) The steps are:

• Curing
• Parching
• Threshing
• Winnowing

Curing involves placing the wild rice on a dry flat surface, usually a concrete floor or plastic tarp. The grains are placed several layers deep and turned occasionally to avoid heating. (not unlike the drying process for barley and other small grains.)
Parching is done in metal containers rotated over a gas or wood flame. The parching process helps to loosen the husk from the grain, furthers the drying process and gives the grain some of its characteristic nutty flavor.
Threshing further removes the grain from the husk. It is done in rotating drums fitted with rubber-shod paddles. The most traditional Anishinaabeg folks danced on the grains.
Winnowing separates the grain from the chaff. It is done in a fanning mill or as simply as tossing the grain into the air with a blanket. In this method, the wind carries off the husks and other chaff while the heavier grains fall back to the blanket (mostly).

Use in Beer

I would like to regale you with great old stories about traditional brewing with wild rice. However, as best as I can determine, there is no historical record of this occurring. American Indian communities have no brewing traditions whatsoever and apparently, wild rice was considered by european descendants to be too valuable as food to brew with (go figure). Most likely it was not used because of prohibitive costs. As for homebrewing, no such luck there, either. I brewed my first batch in April, 1986. When I was contemplating brewing my first batch of beer with wild rice, I consulted some homebrewing "graybeards" about how to use wild rice in beer. None had ever considered or heard of such a thing. So, as far as I know, I am the first person to brew with wild rice. (However,I'm sure this article will turn up some folks whose wild rice brews predate mine.)
How does the addition of wild rice affect the character of beer? Well like most cereal base adjuncts, it appears to add sugars without adding much in the way of body. So you wind up with similar potency but a lighter body than a similar all barley brew. The sweet, nutty flavor characteristic is the other main contribution. However, as with most aromatics, this seems to be lessened over the course of fermentation. I have found it helpful to assist the wild rice with some specialty malts to maintain this nutty flavor. More on that in the recipe section of the article.

Preparation is similar to any other cereal adjunct. The wild rice must be cooked in water until it is gelatinous. It is then added to the barley and mashed by whichever mashing method is preferred by the brewer. I usually use a step infusion mash with a protein rest. I use wild rice for about 1/4 to 1/3 of the total grist. I would expect lack of enzymes to be a problem at higher levels. I have used both American 6 row and 2 row (primarily Klages) for the main barley component with equal conversion success. As I stated earlier, there is no beer related research on wild rice that I was able to find, so any scientific evidence I can give you is purely anecdotal. I have found out that it is possible to "malt" wild rice. However, whether or not this would yield any useful enzymes (or anything else useful for that matter) is anyone's guess. I will probably try it someday just to see what happens.

Commercial Examples

James Page Brewery, Minneapolis, MN
The first commercial brewer to use wild rice. Page originally had 2 brews using wild rice. He recently reformulated his bock recipe, removing the wild rice component.

Boundary Waters Amber Lager
Style: Light Amber Lager
Grains: 6 Row, 10L Crystal, Munich OG: 11.5 Plato (1.046 SG)
% Wild Rice: 10
Hops: Chinook and Cascade IBU: 18-20

Brewers Flavor Comments: Clean lager, nutty, malt flavor
Author's Tasting Notes:Sweet, malty aroma, gold color, flavor follows aroma, sweet, malty, nutty with some caramel flavor, well balanced malt and hops, no hop flavor, light lingering hop bitterness, medium bodied

Boundary Waters Bock
Style: American Bock
Grains: 6 Row, 50L Crystal, Munich OG: 13 Plato (1.052 SG)
% Wild Rice: 5
Hops: Chinook, Hallertau IBU: N/A

Author's Tasting Notes: Sweet, caramely malt aroma with some hops, medium brown color, sweet caramely flavor with some flavor hops, well balanced malt/hops, medium bodied, finishing hops nice but probably inappropriate for style
Brewers inspiration: wanted to make seasonal beers with unique Minnesota character.
First Brewed: Fall, 1988

Capitol Brewing Company, Middlton, WI

Gartenbrau Wild Rice Beer
Style: Demented Pilsner (Honest, that's what they told me)
Grains: 6 Row, specialty malt OG: 12 Plato (1.048 SG)
% Wild Rice: 10-20
Hops: Cascade, Cluster, Willamette IBU: 25

Brewers Flavor Comments: Nutty, meaty

Author's Tasting Notes: Malty aroma with a touch of hops, gold color, sweet, nutty, malt flavor, hop flavor evident, good malt/hop balance, hop bitterness lingers, medium bodied
Brewers inspiration: Ripped-off James Page
First Brewed: 1988

Home Recipes

No article on wild rice would be complete without at least one food recipe. This is a casserole (not being a native Minnesotan, I refuse to use "hotdish" unless tortured.) that can be used as a main dish or side dish.
Ingredients

• 1c uncooked wild rice
• 1/4c butter
• 1/2c slivered almonds
• 2T scallions or chives (small pieces)
• 1c mushrooms (sliced)
• 3c chicken broth

Melt butter (you could use a healthier product but, hey, sometimes taste is just more important) in a skillet. Saute wild rice, almonds, scallions and mushrooms for 10 minutes or until almonds are lightly browned. Add to chicken broth in covered casserole dish (I haven't tried it yet, but beer could be substituted for the chicken broth). Bake at 325o for 1 1/2 hours. For all you mountain folk, these are sea level (or nearly so) instructions. Adjust accordingly. It's a wonderful dish. Enjoy.

This recipe for wild rice "wine" appears in the "Kelliher/Waskish, Minnesota Wild Rice Festival Cook Book". It is reproduced here as much for your amusement as anything else. I have not tried this recipe nor any of the beverage it produced. (And I'm not sure I would even if it were offered.) It did win the beverage category at the Wild Rice Festival in 1977, so I guess it can't be too horrible. I have reproduced the recipe exactly as written so as not to accept any editorial responsibility for it.
Ingredients

• 1/2c wild rice
• 5c white sugar
• 1/2tsp dried yeast
• 12c luke warm water
• 1/4tsp dried yeast
• 4T white sugar

Place wild rice into glass jug with a narrow top (gallon vinegar jug will work). Add sugar (5 cups), yeast (1/2 tsp) and water (water last). Place a large balloon on top of jug (10 cents, now maybe 15 cents). Keep in warm place for 2 months (60 to 70 degrees- if it should get colder at times this will not hurt but take longer). After 2 months remove balloon and add the 1/4 tsp yeast and 4 T sugar. Replace the balloon and let brew and age 2 more months. Now pour into bottles with tight screw top and keep in dark place.
I will add no further editorial comments. Caveat emptor!

Now for the beer recipe. I have brewed several batches of this beer and consider it a work in progress. However, I will share the recipe that I liked best and which has brought the highest number of compliments.
Ingredients

• 4.0lb Klages Malt
• 3.0lb Wild Rice
• 0.2lb Chocolate Malt
• 0.2lb 10L Caramel Malt
• 0.2lb Vienna Malt
• 0.5lb Cara Pils
• 1.0oz Cascade Leaf Hops (60 min)(homegrown, AAU unknown)
• 0.5oz Hallertau Leaf Hops (5 min)
• 1/4tsp Irish Moss (30 min)
• 1qt Wyeast #2124 yeast culture(Bohemian Lager)

Cook wild rice in 1 gal water until gelatinous, Add to barley and 1 1/4 gal 140o water in brewpot, hold for 30 minutes.
Add 1 1/2 gal boiling water (stabilize at 152o), hold for 30 minutes.
Raise to 158o, hold for 30 minutes.
Raise to 170o, Sparge with 4.5 gal 170o water.
Boil for 1 hour, add hops and Irish moss as indicated.
Cool to pitching temp and add yeast
Ferment as a lager if possible, if not, substitute Wyeast German Altbier yeast and brew as an ale. (or use the yeast and method of your choice.)

Wild rice is a grain with a respected cultural and culinary history. Its brewing history is much shorter. This, of course, allows for those great pioneers of brewing, homebrewers, to define and refine its use in beer. Wild rice as an adjunct could be used in any number of ways. It could possibly even be malted and used as the main ingredient. Let your imagination be your guide.

Bibliography

Regguinti, Gordon The Sacred Harvest Lerner Publications Company, 1992
Schulz, Bruno The Wild Ricer's Guide Bruno Schulz, 1979
Fruth, James Harvesting Wild Rice James Fruth, 1980
Dore, William Wild Rice Canada Department of Agriculture, 1969
MN DNR DNR Reports, Wild Rice Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, 1979
Various Authors Kelliher/Waskish Wild Rice Festival Cook Book

For questions about this article, e-mail me at louie@borealbrewers.org